Images from an eBay auction.
Images from an eBay auction.
From an eBay auction.
Image from an eBay auction.
Check out our pride and joy: the Aris Allen Shoeseum and Swing Era Artifacts!
Note: We will be closed for 4 months (all summer!) while we relocate our warehouse/museum.
Vintage shoes, footwear advertising and posters, everything a swing dancer of the jazz era would have been familiar with.
Ancient World · Egyptian · Greek · Roman
Byzantine · Early Medieval · Anglo-Saxon · 12th century · 13th century · 14th century
Renaissance and Reformation
15th century · 1500–1550 · 1550–1600 · 1600–1650 · 1650–1700
Enlightenment era / Georgian era
1700–1750 · 1750–1795 · 1795–1820 · 1820s
1830s · 1840s · 1850s · 1860s · 1870s · 1880s · 1890s
1900s · 1910s · 1920s · 1930–1945
1945–1959 · 1960s · 1970s · 1980s
1990s · 2000s · 2010s
World War I
World War II
(also found on this site and lots of bits of it found all over the web!)
In the Beginning…Ancient drawings discovered on cave walls only included those of animals, indicating that humans did not consider themselves set apart from the rest of the world.
In 10,000 B.C. the history of man was forever changed with the invention of the needle and loom. People made clothing from soaked animal skins, hide, and an early version of felt formed by meshing two skins together.
During the Neolithic Period (6,000 B.C.) people began to settle down. They built bigger looms and made jewelry and weaponry. Natural sources made dyeing fabrics possible. A shell was used to create purple and led to the discovery of indigo. Mordent allowed colors to stay.
Fashion and clothing as the “silent communicator”: protection, modesty, status, affiliation, identification, comfort, superstition, belief systems.
Prehistoric times called for mostly furs, draped skin, and simplicity.
Mesopotamia 3500 B.C.–333 B.C.
Basics: wrapped animal skins, stylized tufts, bare chested, dressed not for warmth but for status. (cylindrical silhouette) Assyrians: tunics, squared beards, petals as fringe. (cone shapes) Persians: trousers, fuller garments, cooler climate, women covered up, tunics with surcoats, woven fabrics. (pointed shapes) “Purdah” 1200 B.C.-Assyrians started the custom of veiling women in public.
Egypt 3100 B.C.–30 B.C. Egyptians enhanced and controlled nature through concepts of beauty.
Basics: gowns called kalasiris with breasts in full view, clothing used to symbolize status, elaborate wigs and collars, shenti=loin cloths, cosmetics, gold, linen. (angular shapes)
Minoan 3,000 B.C.–1450 B.C. The First European Civilization
Basics: tiered dresses with circular skirts, colorful, elaborate detailing in clothing and hairstyles, pleating, exposed breasts, cinched waists, filigree, grooming was important, bathing was a daily ritual. (hourglass shape)
Ancient Greece 1700 B.C.–146 B.C. Archaic, Classical, Hellenistic
Basics: chiton, chylamis, himation, drapery, fibulae, wool, linen, patterned fabric, cosmetics, bleached hair to blonde, conditioned skin, cleaned teeth, bathed, exercised, very body conscious.
Etruscan 753 B.C.–509 B.C.
Basics: very colorful, not modest about nudity, athletic, joyful people, t-shaped tunic, followed Greek fashions, cloaks, loin cloths, wool, cotton, chiton, Etruscan tebenna later develops into the Roman toga.
Roman 753 B.C.–395 A.D. 509 B.C.–476 A.D. (Fall of Rome)
Basics: narrow, simple, dalmatica, tunic, palla, togas, full range of color, linen, wool, silk, cuculus, all about hair, fibulae, layering, bathing, military, Roman brides wore red, modest about nudity, clothes were sewn.
Byzantine (New Rome) The Dark Ages and Byzantium Coexist 324 A.D.–1453
Basics: Greco-Roman influence, dalmatika, chemise, stola, moving toward Medieval fashion, veils, pearls, public baths, clothing was symbolic of stature and rank, robes, silk, taffeta, brocade, damask, perfumery.
The Dark Ages (Carolingian and Romanesque) 476 A.D.–1150. The End of The World
Basics: bliaut, cyclas, trousers, plaids, camisa, hooded garments, capuchon, full skirts, tabard, long sleeves, utilitarian, “barbaric,” knots, braids, colder climate.
Medieval, Gothic, Middle Ages 1150–1485. Nationalistic Styling and The S-Curve
Basics: influenced by Byzantine dress, vertical shapes, more fitted, flowing gowns, cotehardie, cloaks, tunics, surcotes, silk, brocade, wool, flemish, parti-colored, emblems, dagging, hennins, wimple, barbette, chaperone, pale complexions, poulaines, rise of heraldry, chivalry, Crusades, Black Death.
The Renaissance 14th–16th century. Fashion For Fashion’s Sake
Basics: shapes becoming rounder, accentuated physique, farthingales, corsets, drawers, pleated cloaks, lace-making, codpieces, peascod belly, padding for men, slashing, flamboyant, tailors, looser, sexier clothing.
Basics: fairly rigid, stiffness, linearity, ruffs, flatchested look, V-waist, farthingale, bumroll, Venetians, blouses with exposed chests for men, pearls, heeled shoes, whisks, tight, elaborate, heavy and luxurious fabrics.
Cavalier (Early Baroque) 1620-1660. Spain No Longer Dominates Fashion…France Does
Basics: sensual, soft look, doublets, canons, breeches, busk, frock, corset, less stiffness, waistlines rose, embroidery, muffs, hat and plume, very ornamented, falling lace collar, turned down boots, loose hair, echelon: ribbons and bows.
Baroque/Restoration 1660-1715. “L’etat c’est moi”~Louis XIV
Basics: wealthy era, imposing, heavy, vertical look, moving toward Colonial fashion, coat, vest, britches, canons, stockings, busk, Manteau gown, plunging neckline, high waisted, fontages, lace, ribbons, silver and gold embroidery, high heeled shoes, jewelry, elegance, decolletage, fontanges, poor hygiene, lots of perfumes.
Rococo 1715-1775. The Dressmaker is Revered as a Designer
Basics: The Englightenment glorifies women through art and philosophy, light basket around waist as undergarment, pannier (overskirt), silk brocade shoes with heels, Watteau gowns, silks, brocades, jacquard loom invented, fullness from Baroque moves to sides, knee britches, riding boots, powdered hair, mob cap, powder and rouge on faces, corset with V-bodice, softer sleeves, lace collar, sweetheart necklines, sausage curls, pastels, ribbons, lace, birds, flowers, feminine feel, pretty, tricorne, vest, coat, jabot, bag wig, bombazine, King Louis imposed an idealistic pastoral influence on trends. (Rounded hourglass shape)
Neoclassical 1775-1795 and the Revolution 1790-1795
Basics: dresses are called robes: Robe a la Englais (fitted all the way down) and Robe a la Francais (fitted in the front with a Watteau back), fashion dolls become popular, poor hygiene, cosmetics are used to hide bad skin, children get play-clothes!, toilles (scenes depicting an idealized countryside) become popular in mid 18th century, jacquard, satin, silk, seersucker (striped linen with a pucker), French Revolution shuts down fashion in France, Phrygian bonnet resurfaces, waistcoat, trousers, hair is getting bigger, the English wore waistcoats cutaway to reveal underskirts, redingote, stock, mobcap, fullest and most unrealistic proportions after the Baroque period, bicornes, military costumes become ornate, Spencer jacket, stripes.
Basics: high-waisted sheer dresses, revealing bustlines, messy hair for men, cropped jackets, fascination with the classical lines of Greece, tophat, shawls, pouf, time of the first male fashion plate, carrick greatcoat, Incroyables, Marveilleuses, reticule, moving toward Romanticism.
Basics: bateau neckline, Bertha collar, Byron collar, frock coat, crinoline, leg-o-mutton sleeves, opera cloak, stock, Zouave jacket, emphasis on small waist, rounded sloping shoulders and slender necks, fashionable women took on a porcelain doll quality, women were fashionably ill or faint, women looked like tea cozies-Tussy Mussy, hourglass shape for men and women, hair pulled up, corsets, wasp waist for men, men were generally clean shaven and later had small mustaches, the Hoop Skirt became popular mid-century, trousers, stirrups, modern evening attire for men.
Victorian (crinoline) 1848-1870 and Victorian (bustle) 1870-1890
Basics: Basque, bloomers, cardigans, bowler or derby hats, bolero, crinoline, morning coat, mutton chops, pagoda sleeves, paisley shawls, pea jackets, sacksuit, Chignon hairstyle, cinched waist and off the shoulder dresses, handkerchiefs, hoop skirts, promenade gowns, carriages, elaborate cloaks, men wore cutaway jackets, equestrian styling for daytime, Charles Worth and Levi Strauss contributed greatly to the progression of fashion and design, the first department store came about in the 19th century, emphasis on propriety, ascot tie, dust ruffle, blazer, bustle, Chesterfield overcoat, Eton jacket, fedora, jersey sweater, tuxedo, swallowtail jackets, Windsor ties, monocle, knickerbockers, wing collar, modern formalwear, sewing machines made ready to wear clothing!, and true couture sets in.
Edwardian 1890-1911. The Unnatural Waistline Persists
Basics: seaside trips and bathing suits, promenade costumes for women: jacket and bustle, smart hats, adorable button up boots, fullness flattened down the back giving a centaur-like silhouette, stovepipe trousers, waistcoat, looking more modern, different outfits for different sports, Gibson Girl, idealized womanhood, soft and romantic, Art Nouveau-extravagant, over-civilized decadence, Art Deco-more freedom from corseting, skirts impossibly long and tight at bottom=hobble skirt, the advent of film (1910).
WWI and the 1920s. The War and the Flapper Era
Basics: Paul Poiret as the purveyor of eastern fashion, encouraged freedom from corsets, fur shawls and stoles, turban, fantastic headdresses, knee britches for sports, men were static as far as fashion, the war effort called for women to give up their corsets for steel, to be patriotic was fashionable, blouses, skirts, cropped hair, cloches, fashion halts with the war, the invention of birth control-condoms were given to soldiers to prevent Venereal Disease, birth control promoted sexual freedom and the party atmosphere of the twenties, Louise Brooks, cowl neckline, shawl collar, saddle oxfords, trench coat, turtleneck sweaters, pajamas, kimonos, the bob or the shingle hairstyle, t-shirts, chemise dresses, boutonnieres, jodhpurs, suppressed bustlines, straight and thin figures were in, t-strap shoes with a Louis heel, fashion was dictated by youth, nude hose, the new erogenous zone is the leg, mens dress reflected uniforms after WWI, zoot suits, crazy times until the stock market crashes in 1929.
1930s The Golden Age of Hollywood and The Rise of Chanels Practical Silhouette
Basics: women began to wear pants, Kathleen Hepburn, Gretta Garbo, Marlene Diedrich, during the Depression brides cut their gowns, Gone With The Wind, Wizard of Oz, slinky, long and shiny gowns, Fred Astaire, backless gowns, the waist becomes natural, tanning and swimming becomes popular, erogenous zone is now the back, legs are covered up, poor women made dresses from flour sacks, the zipper becomes acceptable in womens clothing, bathing suits trim down, tanned skin symbolizes the leisure class.
Basics: the aloha shirt, argyle, beanies, Bermuda shorts, culottes, crew cuts, loafers, teddies, windbreakers, flight jackets, halter neckline, cummerbund, platform shoes, sportswear, high fashion is relocated from France to the United States.
1950s The Dior Revolution
Basics: skirts get longer, the hourglass silhouette is very similar to Victorian, the natural waist is corseted again by the Merry Widow-breast support and boned down the waist, voluminous skirts, crinoline is replaced by tulle, strapless gowns, silk, evening wear, ballerina look, epitomized by narrow grey flannel suit for men, the new look is characterized by the little black dress and pearls, chukka boot, gaucho pants, twin sets, poodle skirts, pageboy haircuts, mandarin jackets, car coats, ballet slippers, the A-line dress, duffle coat, capri pants, shifts, parkas, pedal pushers, women were encouraged to stay home and men had first picks for jobs, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, Johnny Cash, France returns as the leader of couture.
1960s and 1970s. Great Social Change Precipitates Great Fashion Change
Basics: the miniskirt emerges from Great Britain, youth movement, bob hairstyles, Twiggy, caftans, Nehru jackets, maxi skirts, micro skirts, mod clothing, pantsuits, the birth of the supermodel, ponchos, punk, Sassoon cut, Velcro, vinyl, the moon girl-space age waif, hot pants, flower children, afros, catsuits, the extreme mod look, the hippie look, and preppy styles coexist, the Beatles, designers look to art, music, and youth for inspiration, individualism in fashion takes hold, patches, parti-colored look, the rise of vintage, peasant look, ethnic influences, the crotch is the new erogenous zone, birth control promotes free love, sexuality takes a physical presence as shirts and pants grow increasingly tight.
The pics below are from:
Project Gutenberg’s The Evolution of Fashion, 1897, by Florence Mary Gardiner
The whole book is there for you to read… Thanks, Project Gutenberg!